REJECT EVERYTHING
Meadham Kirchhoff's prayer tree
Models backstage
illustration by Natalia Sanabria
not your typical casting call
Chris Berchie
the manifesto
"freedom is not true"
illustration by Janelle Burger
Poly Stryene hair and Siouxsie Sioux eyes
slurs
beauty tips
Viv Albertine hair
guy hate
fem hate
sorting and contorting the shoe
illustration by Natalia Sanabria
Edward Meadham and his dog Trojan
I am quite late talking about London Fashion Week but I'm so busy with college at the moment. I didn't get the chance to watch a lot of the shows online, most of the London Fashion Week coverage reached me via instagram and tumblr which is in fact quite relevant considering the majority of Meadham Kirchhoff's models are social network regulars. The casting call for the "non typical modal" gives an indication to Meadham Kirchhoff's unconventional collection.
Meadham Kirchhoff's new direction is in complete contrast to the previous collections which indulged in youthful romance. The duo present pornographic slogan tees, transformer style bodysuits with peek holes for the boys and pointed triangle bras for the girls, a white dress with red strings resembling a bloody tampon, nipple stickers, cut latex and shoes that are deliberately unwalkable. Everything about this collections screams rebellion. Even the set works to upset expectation, with a mountain of junk art engrossing the stage and a tree with ribbons and tampons hanging over audience.
Guests were given a zine containing a list of insults commonly used against men and women and a list of likes and hates. Likes being the collection's most prominent influences i.e. Vivienne Westwood, Viv Albertine, Kathleen Hanna, Quentin Crisp and other figures of the feminist/queer movement. The list of hates being conformity, censorship, high street shit, Putin, propaganda. The list of hates reveals some of the reasons behind Meadham Kirchhoff's new-found anger. It seems Edward and Ben have been subject to pressure from the fashion industry to stay within prescribed expectation, sectioned off as a subculture with its own specific demographic of followers.
"Freedom is not True."
The designer is not free from industry expectation and men and women are not free from prejudice.
MK's answer: REJECT EVERYTHING
Rip it up and start again. Reject gender appropriation. Rebel against cultural positioning and transform the archetype of the fashion model.