Christian Dior Autumn/Winter Haute Couture 2015

all photos from style.com

Dior's Autumn/Winter Haute Couture show first caught my attention on Instagram because of the amazing set. The structure resembles a type of greenhouse with pointillist panels suspended over a runway of purple astro turf. The collection reflects on historical moments in art by referencing impressionism, pointillism and the work of the Flemish masters. The exaggerated fur sleeves on the over sized coats references the famous painting by Titan while the white silk dresses reflect the focus on female purity by Dutch artists like Vermeer. The collection often sways between purity and sexuality. Dresses are cut with deep v necks and side slits that are held together by gold chains - which reminds me of the dress worn by Veruschka in Blow Up. Coats are lightly held together to create the impression of concealment and the virginal quality of the long dresses is thrown off balance by the injection of bright red, leather and velvet. The collection also makes a dramatic contrast between lightness and weight. White silk dresses are offset by chain mail and over sized coats are worn over flared trousers. I think the contrast between conservatism and sensuality makes this collection feel modern and dynamic.   

photo by Pierre Debusscher

Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2015

Chanel Couture's 15/16 show is like a fairy tale, set in a hothouse, set in the Grand Palais. I love the paper jungle installation, it looks like the centerfold of a children's pop up book. The show opened with a fairy tale bride hidden by tulle and followed by a procession of garden boys in straw hats, carrying green quilted watering cans. The collection takes a relaxed look on couture, featuring floral decorated beanie hats and elongated woolen skirts. The cropped suit jackets and low waisted skirts give a fresh take on the crop top. The netting attached to hats and wrapped around the eyes remind me of a bee-keepers mask. Each look is so rich in detail, tiny flowers are sewn onto the seams of jackets and tied to the ends of loose plaits, hats are feathered, sequined and beaded, sea shells and chiffon flowers are sewn into dresses and a honeycombed rim forms the end of a coat. Flowers are used as material forming floral hoods, shoulder pads and pockets. The traditional Chanel suit is frayed and adorned with accessories like long belts and the floral gloves. The black dresses, skin tight boots and tulle hats that partly conceal the face modernise the typical spring floral ensemble